Step-by-step
Step 1: Plan the LED layoutFor reef: 60% Royal Blue (445-455nm) + 30% white (6500K) + 10% UV (380-410nm). For planted: 70% white (6500K) + 20% red (660nm) + 10% blue. Total wattage: 1-3W per gallon.
Step 2: Mount LEDs to heatsinkApply thermal paste to LED back. Press LED onto aluminum heatsink. Spaced 1-2 inches apart to allow heat dissipation.
Step 3: Solder LED wires in series + parallelWire LEDs in strings (series) matched to your driver voltage. Multiple strings in parallel. Watch polarity - LEDs are diode-directional.
Step 4: Connect driverDriver output connects to LED string + (positive) and - (negative). Driver input (AC) connects to wall plug. Use a fused power cord for safety.
Step 5: Add opticsSnap-on optics focus light. 60° for direct overhead penetration; 90° for wider tank coverage. Mix beam angles across the fixture.
Step 6: Mount in hoodBuild a plywood or aluminum hood that hangs over tank. Heatsink screws into hood interior. Optics + LED face down toward water.
Step 7: Test + tune intensityPower on at 30%. Use PAR meter (Apogee MQ-510) to measure at substrate level. Target: 100-200 PAR for LPS, 250-500 PAR for SPS, 50-150 PAR for soft coral.
Step 8: Add programmable controller (optional)Inkbird ITC-308 or Apex controller dims/ramps LEDs across the day. Sunrise + sunset cycles + storm modes. $30-200 for controller.
FAQ
Is DIY LED cheaper than commercial?
Yes for large tanks (48"+). DIY for a 6-foot tank: $150-300. Commercial Radion XR30 G6 array: $1,500+. For nano + standard tanks under 48", commercial is competitive.
What spectrum is best for reef?
Royal blue (445-455nm) is the dominant wavelength. Add some UV (400nm) for fluorescence. White (6500K) for visibility. Skip warm whites (3000K) - bad for coral.
Do I need a controller?
For DIY: yes - ramping prevents shock. Inkbird ITC-308 works as a basic dim controller for $30. Apex aquarium controllers integrate with the rest of your reef setup.