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Chocolate shrimp are dark brown Neocaridina davidi - one step lighter than Black Rose but darker than wild-type brown. The cocoa-brown body shows interesting subtle highlights under tank lighting. A more affordable alternative to Black Rose with similar visual impact in well-lit planted tanks.
Native range: Captive-bred selective line. Aquarium specimens enter the trade primarily through captive-bred sources - selective breeding programs in Taiwan, Germany, the United States, and Indonesia produce the color-line specimens you find at LFS and online vendors. Wild-caught stock of any shrimp species is increasingly rare and often less hardy than captive-bred lines.
Tank size: 5 gallons is the practical minimum. Shrimp bioload is low - colonies of 50+ adults thrive in 10-gallon tanks with adequate biofilm and filtration. Water parameters: pH 6.5-8.0, temperature 65-78°F, hardness 6-15 dGH. Filtration should be sponge-filter or matten-filter based to prevent shrimp and shrimplets from being sucked into intakes. Avoid HOB filters with strong suction unless modified with sponge pre-filters.
Substrate: depends on species. Neocaridina tolerate any inert substrate (gravel, sand, or planted aquarium soil). Caridina (CRS, Taiwan Bee) require active substrate (ADA Amazonia, Fluval Stratum) that buffers pH down to 5.5-6.8 and maintains soft water. Sulawesi shrimp require buffered alkaline substrate or crushed coral additives.
Plants: Java moss, Christmas moss, Subwassertang, and other fine-leaved species are essential - they provide grazing surface area for biofilm (the primary shrimp food) and cover for shrimplets. Heavy planting dramatically improves colony health and breeding rates.
Chocolate Shrimps eat biofilm continuously and supplement with periodic protein/algae feedings. Primary diet: Biofilm, algae, veggies, pellets. Feed sparingly - shrimp can survive on biofilm alone in mature tanks for weeks. Over-feeding is the primary cause of water quality problems in shrimp tanks. Best feeding practice: small amount once every 2-3 days, removed within 2-4 hours if uneaten.
Supplemental foods worth rotating: Indian almond leaf (for tannins + grazing surface), mulberry leaf, blanched spinach/zucchini/cucumber (small pieces, removed after 24 hours), snowflake food, mineral stones (Montmorillonite clay), and species-specific commercial foods like Bacter AE, Shrimp Cuisine, or Borneo Wild biofilm enhancers.
Safe: Other Neocaridina (separate), small peaceful fish.
Avoid: Predatory fish, copper, other Neocaridina davidi.
Adult shrimp can defend against most very small fish, but shrimplets (newly-hatched, sub-3mm) are essentially defenseless and will be eaten by anything fish-shaped. Species-only tanks produce the most prolific colonies; community tanks with fish work but reduce shrimplet survival rate significantly.
Prolific. Breeding triggers across most shrimp species: stable parameters, biofilm-rich environment, varied diet, moderate temperatures (slightly warmer than maintenance temperature often triggers breeding cycles). Female shrimp signal readiness by carrying eggs under the tail (called "berried" - eggs visible as a clutch of small spheres). Male shrimp pursue females immediately after molting.
Confusion with wild-type brown culls; cross-breeding.
Chocolate is a selectively bred consistent cocoa-brown. Wild-type Neocaridina varies from pale tan to dark brown and is the default color if any color line cross-breeds repeatedly.
Yes - identical Neocaridina davidi care. Hardy beginner option.
Yes - same species. Keep isolated to maintain chocolate color.
Typically $4-8 each - less expensive than Black Rose, more expensive than basic Cherry.
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