Step-by-step
Step 1: Buy equipment90-gallon tank (48"×18"×24" or 36"×18" footprint),
Fluval FX4 or two AquaClear 110 HOBs (oversized filtration is critical for high-bioload cichlids), 300W heater, LED light, aragonite sand (raises KH/pH), large pile of holey limestone or texas holey rock.
Step 2: Water chemistryMbuna are from Lake Malawi (pH 7.8-8.6, GH 10-15, KH 8-12). Aragonite sand naturally buffers to ~8.0 pH. Use tap water if hard; supplement with
Seachem Cichlid Salt + Lake Salt + buffer if local water is soft.
Step 3: HardscapeMbuna are rock-dwelling; provide MAXIMUM rock structure. Stack holey limestone or texas holey rock to within 4 inches of waterline. Each fish needs its own cave/territory. Use reef putty + zip ties to secure stacks against fish movement.
Step 4: Cycle weeks 1-4Add bottled bacteria. Dose ammonia to 2-3 ppm. Test daily. Cycle complete when ammonia + nitrite both 0 within 24h. Don't skip cycling - mbuna produce massive bio-load and will crash an uncycled tank.
Step 5: Stocking strategyOVERSTOCK to spread aggression. 20-30 mbuna in a 90g (yes, really). All juveniles at 1.5-2", all added at once. Mix species/colors but keep similar size. 2-3 females per male of each species. Common starter: 6 yellow labs, 6 acei, 6 demasoni, 4 rusty cichlid.
Step 6: Daily feedingFeed 2x daily small portions (only what fish eat in 1 minute). Mbuna are HERBIVORES - feed cichlid pellets with spirulina, nori, blanched zucchini. Protein-heavy diet causes Malawi Bloat (intestinal disease).
Step 7: Weekly maintenanceSaturday: 30% water change (gravel vac sand), wipe glass, test pH + ammonia + nitrate. Cichlid tanks need MORE frequent water changes than community due to high bioload + high feeding rate. Replace filter floss bi-weekly.
Step 8: Long-termYear 1: territories form, breeding pairs claim caves, fry appear (mouthbrooders). Year 2+: rehome aggressive males or add more rock structure. Replace heater at 24 months. Cichlids live 8-12+ years with proper care.