Step-by-step
Step 1: Buy equipment10-gallon tank, sponge filter (
Hikari Bacto-Surge or generic), small heater (50W), LED light,
ADA Amazonia or
Fluval Stratum (for caridina) OR inert gravel (for neocaridina), TDS meter, RODI water source.
Step 2: Water chemistryNeocaridina (cherry, blue dream): pH 6.8-8.0, TDS 200-300, GH 6-8 - tap water often works. Caridina (crystal red, taiwan bee): pH 5.8-6.5, TDS 100-120, GH 4-6 - requires RODI + specific salts (
Salty Shrimp GH+).
Step 3: Substrate setupCaridina:
ADA Amazonia 2 inches deep (active substrate buffers pH down). Neocaridina: any inert gravel 1 inch deep. Add seiryu stones, driftwood, java moss, anubias for hiding spots + biofilm growth.
Step 4: Cycle weeks 1-4Cycle longer than fish tank - shrimp are sensitive to ANY ammonia. Add bottled bacteria + ammonia source. Wait 4-6 weeks minimum. Test TDS + parameters weekly. Some plant tanks run for 2-3 months before adding shrimp.
Step 5: StockingAdd 10-15 shrimp at first (don't spend big money on premium grades until colony stable). Acclimate over 2 hours via drip method - shrimp are TDS-sensitive. Don't mix neocaridina + caridina (they hybridize into wild-type brown).
Step 6: FeedingTiny portions every other day - shrimp eat biofilm + algae 24/7 from the substrate. Supplement with Bacter AE, Shrimp Lollies, blanched zucchini, frozen bloodworms (small portions). NEVER overfeed - excess food = planaria, hydra, ammonia.
Step 7: BreedingBoth genera breed readily in stable parameters. Females carry eggs under tail (visible "saddle" yellow on first eggs). Eggs hatch in 30 days; baby shrimp are mini-versions of adults. Sponge filter (not HOB) protects babies from being sucked up.
Step 8: Year 1Colony grows from 15 to 100+ shrimp. Excess can be sold ($1-3 per shrimp for neocaridina, $5-50 for caridina). Replace 25% water weekly with parameter-matched RODI. Don't add fish - any fish over 1 inch eats baby shrimp.